Readjustment Quirks

I’ve already begun to notice many things that I will have to get used to when I go back to the States. Some of them are significant and some are humorous but all are true.

peanut butter- I’ve gotten used to all natural here, and it’s wonderful, and so I think I’ll have to go with that back in America

toilet paper- the stuff here is a lot of crepe paper, not very soft- so I’m not sure what I’ll do with soft, white stuff

equality- women here are definitely not treated equally, although they are the ones that run the household and usually have jobs

trash cans- not really existent here so it’s going to be a sight to see, and to use them

flushable, indoor toilets- although I’ve realized that at the time the outhouse is better, but squatting does take it’s tole after a while, but I’m not sure I’ll remember to flush the toilet paper in the toilet instead of in a wastebasket

no power problems- in the states I won’t have to worry about power outages, non grounded lines, lack of good quality sockets nor random sparks- that will very nice

English- it’ll be weird to speak it again all the time and I have a feeling it’ll be bad when I first get back into it

time- for good or bad time is very different here. Some days it’s incredibly frustrating but other days nice to have a more relaxed feel and pace, so going back into the hustle and bustle of America will be weird

reliable transportation- not really existent here so having reliable transportation will be wonderful

cooking- once again I’ll have to cook again for myself, which I’ve realized I’m not that great of a cook. I’ve grown accustomed to having meals prepared for me so I’m not sure what I’ll do when I have to cook on my own

no kids- I won’t have my host siblings around anymore. That will be interesting…

food variety- there is definitely a lack of variety in diet and it’ll be nice to have that once again

raisins and apricots- I eat these all the time everyday and so I think I won’t want them

showers- it’ll be nice, but weird at first, to be able to shower everyday

no power struggles- power between people, groups and organizations does exist but it’ll be nice not be inadvertently pulled into it with no chance for defense

no sheep meat- Yay!

hot water, shoot water indoors- I look forward to not having to go get water from buckets all the time

stores- yeah be thankful you can run to a store at any time of the day and get anything you need, that doesn’t exist here

lined paper- it’s a big deal and it missed

dollars- I’ve think I’ve forgotten how those work, it’ll be nice to use them again

long, fluffy beds- I’m short and there are times when I hit the end of the bed, plus they’re not really that comfortable

beautiful scenery- this place is beautiful and really no matter what season or time it’s gorgeous

people- the people here have their faults and sometimes it can be hard to interact with them but they are unique and will be missed, they are also very beautiful

cell phone units- I’ve actually gotten used to the whole buy units as you go and really like it, I really don’t want to go back to a plan

church- there are English churches in the capital but none near where I live. It would be nice to be able to go at times

mirrors- long mirrors really don’t exist- it’ll be nice to see all of me again

paved roads, roads in general- the roads here are bad, some, like in my village are not paved, they will once again be appreciated

driver’s licenses- people here need driving school, enough said

mountains and hiking- this is a great country to explore, climb mountains and hike- that will be missed

animal noises- sheep baying outside my window, dogs barking and attacking, donkeys baying- all will be missed.

Nooruz

On March 21 we celebrated a holiday called Nooruz. It is the Muslim New Year and is considered a big celebration. I was a little apprehensive about this because all the parties I’d been too so far I hadn’t enjoyed. This was because of several reasons. Firstly, they are always at a house of people I don’t know where I sit around for four to five hours with no one to talk to and nothing to do. Then I feel even more stupid because I’m the guest of honor and yet just usually sit there like a bump on a log.

So leading up to this one I didn’t know what to expect except that it was going to be at my family’s house and they had to prepare lots of food. The day before they were up to all hours of the night making the food and I again felt really useless because there wasn’t much for me to do. I couldn’t help with the cooking or preparations. So I pretty much hid in my room. That morning I did help set up the tables and set out the candy, cookies and salads. But there were still lots I couldn’t. So partly to stop feeling useless and to get out before everyone came I went to the local club where they were having a concert. This concert was one of the strangest and yet best concerts that I’ve been to yet. It was very short and done completely by the children of the school and hardly any parents were there It was very Kyrgyz in the lack of people paying attention or being respectful while they were on stage yet is was still good and I did enjoy it.

As I was walking home I was nervous about the upcoming party. I didn’t want to have to sit there for hours and eat the food while the rest of my family did the preparations and everything else. Thankfully it didn’t turn out that way. There weren’t that many people there and so that helped and it was right next to my room which allowed me quick escapes whenever I needed it. Plus I have a computer that plays movies so the kids wanted to watch this Russian cartoon on my computer which was fine. That kept me gong in and out the entire time. Plus since I was in familiar settings I was able to help out more than usual and to show pictures of my family, friends and America, which they love here. The food was good and once it was done I realized I had actually had a good time. Surprise surprise.

Slumps

Everyone has good days and bad days. When you live overseas this is especially true. You have days when you love everything about the country, people and culture. There are other days when all you want is for them to tell you in English what they are trying to say. There are times when you just want to say something back and just get away for a while. There are times when the brain hurts, times when the body hurts and times when everything hurts. Everyday gives more expectations and disappointments. Some days your work will treat you well and other times horribly. You will be blamed for things because language is an issue or may not be able to defend another volunteer because of cultural restraints. Miscommunication and lack of understanding are constant themes in everyday life and chaos is ever present. Some days the constant baying of the animals at all hours of the day drives you mad, yet can cause great surprises.

For every slump there is a rise. Every new challenge gives new lessons and greater outcomes. Life is not easy; the life of a Peace Corps Volunteer is even harder, yet full of amazing challenges. No two days are the same and each day provides both slumps and triumphs. What must be learned is how to deal with those challenges and not let them fester and torment. That does happen and it’s sad to see. Yet by recognizing what is really there, what is within your control and out of your control will help conquer any slump. Sure physical difficulties are different from mental which are different from emotional but each one can be conquered. Slumps are not easy to overcome and no matter where you reside can shape the course of your life. For us, as volunteers, they can be really devastating and so we learn how to cope and deal. It’s not easy and some days are just bad, no matter what you do. Other days are great and are therefore even more enjoyed. So therefore, consider the day. How will you handle problems, slumps? Just remember there is something good in each day and every slump, every challenge can be overcome… it’s the Peace Corps way!

It's All About Sheep

Today after work and English lessons with my family I was given the chance to help bring in the sheep from the pasture. Having never lived on a farm I was excited about this opportunity because I could once and for all satisfy my unending curiosity regarding where the sheep actually come from every night. I hear them outside my bedroom during the night but then around 10 in the morning they go away with their other sheep friends to graze “far away”. Since I got to site I’ve been wondering where this “far away” place is; now I had the chance. I thought I’d only have to wait maybe ten minutes and then we’d bring them up our street and into the yard and be done. How totally and completely wrong I was, and how very typical of a Peace Corps experience it truly became- expect the unexpected and be willing to go with the flow.

So thinking I’d only be outside for about 15 minutes at the most I grab my lighter coat and no scarf; I was smart enough to grab my hat otherwise I’d be in a really bad pickle. About one hour later the sheep finally come in from the grazing field. I was shivering and cold and yet when the first batch walked past me with the setting sun and the mountains and lake in the background I couldn’t help but think it really was a beautiful site. Plus for some unexplainable reason I had a funny thought as the sheep walked past me. Here were lines and rows of sheep walking one behind the other patiently waiting to get to their destination and my brain thought of this,” it’s like Kyrgyz traffic, instead of cars like in America it’s herds of sheep.” (You all probably don’t think it’s funny but it makes me smile). What really made me smile was just how smoothly and efficient this process worked. The sheep came, stopped, and waited. Walked when told to and went to the right homes. People came out when they heard the sheep coming, opened their gates and in went the sheep. It was like magic. But the really funny thing was the looks on people’s faces that I got as I was walking with lots of sheep. My family was with me as we were making sure all of our 41 sheep safely returned to the fold. We had sticks and were looking around for our “green circled angle” sheep (the sheep have a green circle painted on their heads- each family does it to distinguish theirs). As I am walking past students that I have, neighbors and coworkers kids I kept seeing one expression, “what is the American doing with the sheep and she looks really funny holding a stick and trying to round up the sheep.” I myself couldn’t help but laugh at what must be a very humorous site.

Finally the sheep arrive at our yard and suddenly it’s realized we have one sheep missing. Uh oh, that’s a bad sign because here sheep are very valuable and can bring much money and goods to a family. So now we have the task of trying to find our lost sheep. (Sounds slightly like a biblical story, right?) We go to our neighbor’s house and nope it’s not there. We continue up and down the various streets for well over an hour. (By now the sun has set, I’m shivering and very cold and still no sheep). The entire family is out looking for this one lost sheep and even though I know it’s valuable I can’t help but think, “just give it up, it’s not use”. We finally do and proceed to the house.

My host dad then informs me that he is sending my host brother back over to the first neighbor’s house to see if they have it. I don’t understand why but my host brother comes back and says that yes they do have it and will bring it over. My host family then proceeds to tell me this neighbor is known to be “crazy” at times and has in the past stolen clothes off my family’s clothes line (why, don’t ask). Apparently because the sheep was a little one (it’s like a Billy goat) he didn’t see it and so didn’t know he had it. If that’s the real story I don’t know but it happens both here and in the States as well.

All I can say is it’s all about sheep. They help with livelihoods and are very precious to the people. They provide for adventures and gave me one that I was not expecting. Hopefully next time it won’t be such an ordeal (I think I’m supposed to go and get them tomorrow, yikes!)

Reflections

Sometimes is hard to believe that I am in the Peace Corps. I’m sure many of you, like me, automatically think of Africa, Southeast Asia or South America when you think of Peace Corps. Honestly I did too and was almost positive I was going to Africa, particularly because I have a master’s in public health. I was given the choice, however- which again is rare, of either Africa or Central Asia. I choose Central Asia and then through another set of unusual circumstances my departure time was moved up early so that I could come to Kyrgyzstan. So what do I think of that decision? It’s been a great one.

However there have been times when I do think, “Am I really in Peace Corps?” Part of this is because PC publication is very heavy on promoting Africa and various other places; Central Asia is not heavily promoted. Plus on the whole Central Asia volunteers, at least in Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, do have it a lot easier than other volunteers in some places. For instance some of the volunteers here do have indoor plumbing, indoor hot water and indoor toilets. They have apartments, not a nice as some in the states and not as bad as some either. We all have actual homes made of stone, mortar and keep out the elements. We have electricity- maybe not all the time, but we have it most of the day. If we don’t have water in our house we have easy access to it. Some of our families have televisions, DVD players, radios, computers, microwaves, stoves, ovens, etc. We never go hungry nor do we have to worry about food; there’s always plenty of it, if not in the greatest variety. Finally, on the whole we are not that far from other volunteers, no more than two hours at max from another. Therefore, with all of this it can, at times, feel very hard to believe one is in the Peace Corps.

I’ve got two amazing rooms, my own kitchen and an awesome family and village. I don’t cook, unless I want to, which isn’t often, and I’m feed regularly, pretty healthily and abundantly. My work is great, frustrating at times but still awesome. I live near the lake and am within walking distance of it. An hour car drive away and I’m in the mountains. It’s a beautiful area but also not without trials. I don’t have running water in my house and we do have water shortages at times. Power does get turned off during the day and at night and I do have to use an outdoor toilet, although it’s one of the better ones in the village. I don’t have a stove, microwave, or anything like that but that doesn’t mean the food is not cooked well. White bread, black tea and sheep fat are staples to diets here but one learns to deal. Chairs with backs are hard to come by, they are very expensive and so are actual table and desks like in the states. During the warm weather I do have to worry about spiders in my room but they are easily taken care of. Also, sometimes we’ll see a mouse running around and I am constantly aware of the huge amounts of animal droppings that are everywhere. Yet, despite these few hardships I have it very easy. I can use my laptop whenever I want without fear of it getting ruined. I can watch movies or read books on my bed or couch or armchair. I can plug in my cell phone, laptop and heater most of the time and I never have to worry about the outdoor elements coming into my house.

So you can see how at times it could be hard to believe you’re in PC, and I don’t even live in a city. But, it’s more than just outside exterior too that can make you wonder at times. Every volunteer goes through the thinking of why are they here? In particular this usually arises during a time when they are not working or having a rough patch. I think, when those times arise, it’s almost easier to get an answer is places like Africa. You can visibly see the challenges that you overcome and even the differences that are being made. Here, because we do have so much, but yet don’t, those lines are blurred. It can be difficult at times to know if you are making a difference, especially when culture is considered. Also, when there is nothing for you to do can make you wonder. Currently because of weather many of the English teachers are not in school. So they have ample free time. Some of them have taken vacation and yet many, I’m sure, have wondered why they traveled all this way to do nothing. No matter what the reasoning for joining PC was, every volunteer, I think, has a small amount of idealism in them. When things change or don’t happen that idealism, those reasons, can be shaken. Yet, this doesn’t just occur here in Kyrgyzstan but occurs everywhere that a volunteer- or for anyone living outside of their home country.

It is often stated that being a Peace Corps volunteer is the “toughest job you’ll ever love”. It is very tough. Not only is very country different and has unique challenges to overcome but you have to deal with so much other stuff everyday, day in and day out. Comparisons to other places never help and can make volunteers wonder and contemplate. Language, culture, food, jobs, other volunteers and families all take their tolls and again are challenges. Yet each provides a time to learn and gain new perspectives. My site mate recently told me she’s learned so much about people skills in her short time here, and that is just one of many lessons. So while being a PC volunteer in Kyrgyzstan may not be as difficult physically as in other places, the mental challenges are all the same. So friends, don’t just automatically think of Africa when considering the PC. Remember volunteers are everywhere and we each have unique experiences and challenges. So until next time…

More Lessons Learned

More Lessons Learned:

- sheep can walk on two legs
- size really doesn't matter
- a martshuka always has room for more people
- guesting can literally take all day
- clothes are not considered dirty until you've worn them for three consecutive weeks straight
- washing hair once a week really is no big deal
- besh barmak really gets your hands dirty
- most dogs here are really mean
- lined paper is a non-existent
- mechanical pencils do not exist
- pens never work
- people still think you speak Russian even though you've had a 30 minute conversation in Kyrgyz
- there are no street signs
- water is a valued, and scarce, commodity
- everyone is a farmer
- no heat, no school for three months
- regional dialects stink
- time here is so completely different than the states, yet no one seems bothered by it
- oranges in winter are heaven
- soup in winter gets very old very quickly
- borsak is not all it's cracked up to be
- people can change here, the smallest word, or deed can make a difference
- there's way too much candy
- most people look way older than they actually are
- Kyrgyz story books do not exist
- language is a never ending battle
- dogs can give hugs
- rooster meat is yummy
- children are children no matter where
- they love to dance
- privacy is precious
- I do live in a fishbowl
- not having a boyfriend is a hard concept to understand
- I have many potential matchmakers
- they think I'm a doctor even though I constantly say I'm not
- a hot banya is amazing a warm one, not so much
- tea gets really old really fast
- juice is awesome and worth the price
- they eat a lot of bread, I mean tons
- cats eat bread, not other food
- my room is awesome
- classes here are interesting
- health is a foreign concept
- lots of problems abound
- it's a very generous community

Advanced Low

This last week I have been in the capital because of training. It was a nice time for many reasons. One of the primary ones being that for an entire week I was able to have hot running water and electricity all the time. Woohoo! Plus I got good food and got lots more movies from other volunteers. The training itself was well and both my counterpart and I learned a lot. When I go back to site this week we'll talk about everything that we learned and hopefully begin to put it into practice. I got some great ideas for secondary projects and hope to begin incorportating those as well. I finished several grants and now am awaiting the response from Peace Corps and others. It was a good week except I came to one conclusion, traveling around the city really stinks. It's not easy and you have to know where you're going in order to get there. I'm slowing learning it but it's really hard because there are no street signs and none of the public transportation methods tell you where you are. You just have to get on and off at the right place. But, such is life.

However, what really made my day was my when I took my Kygryz language test this last week. At IST the test is optional and at PDM (in March) we are all required to take the test again. Well I wanted to take it this time partly because I'm a nerd but also because I know my language has gotten better and I wanted to see how much I had progressed. People in the village had said it was better and in December much of the language started to begin to really click with me (it helped that my site mate was gone for about two weeks and all I could speak during that time was Kyrgyz). So I took the test and seemed to do well during it. My testor was able to understand me and everything flowed really well. So he has me finish and then tells me that I'm much better than I was at the end of PST and that I sound much more natural and everything flows better. He says I sound like a local, yay! I'm thinking nice, Intermediate High, awesome. He then tells me I jumped two levels and went from intermediate mid to advanced low! I was floored. I knew I had improved but didn't think I had improved that much. Also because there's still loads I have trouble saying but he told me I jumped into the advanced category and he also told me that it's rare for people to jump from the intermediate level to the advanced level in a span of three months. So woohoo!! I was happy and excited and shocked.

So the moral.. come visit because I can probably translate better than I originally thought. :)